common perfume ingredients

Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale Meo FusciuniNotturno. Petigrain. Actually, iris runs the spectrum from sweet to earthy: it also works brilliantly to fix other ingredients, giving a more lasting quality to florals and base notes. So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, theyll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time, Cacharel Anas Anas But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! Nice myth, though. (Now that wed have loved to smell), As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'tonka is warm and smooth - but unlike vanilla, it can remind you of hay. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Cherry Blossom Guerlain LInstant de Guerlain Eau de Toilette The Different Company Osmanthus. Notes reminiscent of this favourite beverage from the dried leaves of Camellia sinensis (seen in our photo growing on plantation slopes) - have made their way into quite a few sheer, uplifting fragrance creations in recent years, a trend kickstarted by Bulgaris Eau Parfume au Th Vert. In a fragrance? Miller Harris La Pluie "It has a delicate, elegant, radiant, and floral character, reminiscent of jasmine with citrus freshness, and blends well with all kinds of perfumes. Gucci Gucci by Gucci Fragonard Citron The hybrid Dutch lavender, or Lavandula intermedia, produces an oil called lavandin, with a sharper and more medicinal odour. As perfumer Alienor Massenetexplains: 'Benzoin is as suave as vanilla, and has a touch of cinnamon to it. According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) Short for rumbullion or rumbustion, slang words which meant tumult or uproar (which can be what happens after one rum cocktail too many, even now). (Beware, though: neat eucalyptus oil should be kept away from babies and small children, and avoided by those who suffer from asthma. LOccitane Cherry Blossom Theyre then steam-distilled to produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the business as iris butter. "In the Aztec language, it's called 'the flower made of little bones,'" says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. As they have for thousands of years, these deciduous trees grow (impressively fast) in the Mediterranean and the Middle East although the fig note we smell in contemporary fragrances is actually quite likely to be synthetic, from ingredients which go by the name of stemone (it smells very green, and is produced by the fragrance house Givaudan) and octalactone gamma (more prune-like and sappy). Unpick the chemical structure of this plant and youll find its incredibly rich in an aroma compound called eugenol - so quite often, what you smell in a perfume hasnt come from a plant at all, but has been synthesised. Long before that, though, the bitter orange tree is thought to have been brought to Europe by the Arabs from the Middle East, when the trade routes opened up. Burberry Brit Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. 'It has an almost cinnamon quality, yet is very feminine.'. In aromatherapy, blood orange is considered uplifting, stimulating and anti-depressant. It has a waxy, soft floral quality, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with pollen. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Jimmy Choo Eau de Toilette It may not come as a surprise, though, to discover that this is a synthetic, or fantasy, ingredient rather than something lovely distilled from desserts, puddings or candies. Its pretty unusual to see quinces growing (although the Spanish do use it to make a paste, membrillo, which is served with cheese) but they look half-way between a pear and an apple (to which its related). It's okay if the answer is "not well at all." Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. Mostly, though, when you see elder listed as an ingredient, thatll be a synthetic version. Giorgio Armani Idole dArmani Water and So juicy, you can almost imagine this running down your chin: sweet, slightly tart, and of late cherrys become Miss Popularity in the perfume stakes, with the rise in pretty, girly fruity-florals. The soft, sweet, pretty-pretty powderiness of blossoms from the flowering Prunus so prized in Japan are expected to start turning up in many more fragrances, as perfume starts to look East in earnest. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Reminscent of jasmine, gardenia and orange blossom, tuberose is often blended alongside those other white flowers. Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture Aniseed, licorice, fennel, tarragon: star anise reminds us of all of these. Guerlain Samsara There are a couple of twists on petitgrain: a form known as citronnier is distilled from the leaves of the lemon tree, in Mediterranean areas; as youd imagine, its more yes lemony. (See also cherry blossom, a floral note.) The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who youre speaking to Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Ah, pesto Basil is a delicious herb, when used in cooking and a delicious, aromatic fragrance note, too, with a green, slightly sharp and spicy edge that lends itself really well to mens scents. Byredo Accord Oud As you might suspect, theres a touch of damp forest floor to this material, too. Keiko Mecheri Bois de Santal Tauer Perfumes06 Incense Rose. Kim Kardashian Love Kim. Maybe. Its a fantasy note, of course: as perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'Sugar doesn't exist in perfumery - but sugary facets can be found in synthetic notes called maltol and ethyl maltol'; that sweet and caramel tone is very much used in perfumer, these days. But it also works brilliantly as a fixative: around 13% of all perfumes apparently contain at least a trace of frankincense. 19 was a very high grade from Iran. Boucheron Boucheron Maison Francis KurkdjianAPOM Pour Femme. ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir Clinique Aromatics Elixir Musk notes are alluring, smooth, powdery," says Binder. GoutalParis Grand Amour Lush Smell of Weather Turning Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. Geraniol Common in Through our longstanding contacts in the world of perfume perfumers, bottle designers, brand creators, the fashion designers who have their names on some of the worlds bestselling scents we have our finger on the pulse-point of everything thats happening and we are delighted to share it with you here. (Though we do also invite you to improve your sense of smell through one of our nationwide workshops for subscribers click here for details. Contrary to myth, laurel is no relation to the bay used in the traditional spicy West Indian aftershave, Bay Rum though it can be found in plenty of masculine fragrances, as well as feminine chypres. Bond No. (Theyre left in a cool, dry place, and need protection against fungus and insect attack which would destroy the producers valuable harvest.). A third variety, Narcissus jonquil, can also be used, and in one form or another this beautiful ingredient is said to make its way into as much as 10% of modern fragrances - despite the fact that a staggering 500 kilos of flowers are needed to produce a kilo of concrete, or just 300 g of absolue, making it very pricy. Este Lauder Private Collection At least thats what I believe. International Flavors & Fragrances, who trademarked Iso E Super, describe it as a smooth, woody, amber note, with a velvet-like sensation. It all began in Ancient Egypt, where incense was first created using precious gums and resins from trees, imported from the Arabian coast and Somalia. You might know it best from Caribbean jerk seasoning, or from Middle Eastern cuisine (or Thanksgivings pumpkin pie spice mix) and in perfumery, allspice offers a similarly warm, sensual, nutty quality. (Strangely, the flower itself is scent-less.). Your memory isnt deceiving you: if youve ever buried your nose in a bunch of these beautiful, delicate blue (or sometimes white or pink) flowers hoping for a whiff of something equally gorgeous, youll have been disappointed: theyve almost no scent at all. Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire The use of this gloriously purple-coloured plant in perfumery goes right the way back to Ancient Egypt. We all know bamboo. But pine can also be wonderful crisp, spicy, outdoorsy and invigorating and its been closely linked to perfume creation since the time of the early Arab perfumers, who liked it in combination with frankincense, in particular. Do orchids smell? Chanel Chance COUMARIN. Now it has a somewhat old-fashioned, great-aunt-ish image, which means carnation tends to be consigned the chorus of a perfume rather than placed in the spotlight. The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. GoutalQuel Amour Prada LEau Ambre. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. (Not to be confused, incidentally, with the type of verbena grown in Britain, which has no value in perfumery. (Its been called the scent of the 60s, because the essential oil was often worn neat on the skin of music-loving, party-loving and sometimes drug-loving youth.) Stephanotis generally appears as part of a bigger bouquet of blowsy, hypnotic white florals. Robert Piguet Fracas In summer scents, in particular, kiwi adds a refreshing sweetness. Great with vanilla. Lancme La Vie Est Belle Dior Miss Dior We eat grapes, we drink them and sometimes, we dab or spritz a synthesised version on our pulse points. Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. Mostly, this evocative note conjuring up images of sculptural wood cast ashore by stormy seas, and bleached by the sun makes its way into mens fragrances, or light, beach-inspired summery colognes. Paul & Joe Blanc Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame "It adds a sunny sparkle to the top notes and blends harmoniously with everything from other citruses, to fruits, florals, and woods.". Grossmith Phul-Nana Its derived from a tree in Central and South America (Copaifera officinalis) and acts as a base note and fixative. LArtisan Parfumeur LEau de LArtisan Herms 24 Faubourg Oscar de la Renta Oscar Goutal Eau de Camille We love this quote about freesias that we first found on the perfume website Fragrantica, meanwhile. Miss Sixty Miss Sixty In rituals, sandalwood oil may be applied to the forehead, the temples, or rubbed between the eyebrows. Theres no cashmeran bush, or tree, or root, though: this is a synthetic fantasy ingredient, also sometimes referred to as blonde woods on perfume note pyramids. Penhaligons Orange Blossom Sometimes, the roots and the wood of this slow-growing tree are used, putting some environmental question marks over its use today. Over a hundred species of honeysuckle exist and among the most fragrant are the wild English honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) the Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and Lonicera fragrantissima, which comes originally from China. ), Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the sun. Dior Diorama Goutal Eau du Sud Olfactive Studio Chambre Noire, Sweet, juicy, peachily honey-like: nectarines have been dripping their bright fruitiness over quite a few compositions, of late, riding on the popularity of fruity-florals. Guy LarocheFidji And there is a quality that says "bathroom, used, not cleaned for a while", and so much more. Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart. Cartier Les Heures Voyageuses Oud & Menthe Many a gardeners favourite flower, the sweet pea: obligingly abundant, so long as you keep picking its long stems day after day. Bulgari Eau Parfume au Th Vert Gardenia (tiare) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. Bury your nose in an amaryllis (do mind the pollen! Tom Ford Jonquille de Nuit French Thyme), or Thymus vulgaris, from which most of the essential oil is steam-distilled. "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. The Different Company Sienne dOrange. All names for the same plant, with those fabulous yellow pom-pom flowers which look delicate, but fill a room with their dreamy sweetness in minutes. (We do.) Chanel Cristalle Beyonc Heat And its sticky, which is how the powdered root came to be used in candy-making. Dior Les Crations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Max Mara Le Parfum Fresh but sophisticated, too. Le Labo Labdanum 18 Dior JAdore Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. Chanel No. Tart and sweet. Do you hate it? Este Lauder Private Collection Jovoy Paris Poudre Dior JAdore LOr Serge Lutens Santal Blanc In modern fragrance, lavender is lightly used in feminine scents, although it turns up in plenty of shared colognes and mens fragrances; it works well alongside other aromatic ingredients like pine, sage and rosemary, as well as patchouli, oakmoss, bergamot, neroli and orange blossom. Calvin Klein Eternity Lacoste Pour Femme Not surprisingly, a synthetic versions often used. Estee Lauder Beautiful Patchouli is a magical ingredient. Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. "AmberXtreme is the superpower of perfumers. Serge Lutens Santal Majascule (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel. And are you ready for the explanation of the name? I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile Think of this as a chameleon note: even more than most notes, davana is said to smell differently on each of us which is why its prized by some perfumers. Memo Sundance Its been around for thousands of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and it was also uncovered in the pyramids. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. Comme des Garons Sequoia In the Victorians language of flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity. As 'nose' Christine Nagel explains, cedar wood can be used to different effect. Birch tar can be one of the ingredients going in there. Donna Karan Cashmere Mist The galbanum used in No. Penhaligons Sartorial, As youd imagine, brown sugar adds sweetness to our perfumes in just the same way as it does to cereals, cakes, candies. Givenchy Amarige Jo Malone London Vetyver Nasomatto Hindu Grass As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'Freesia in perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell is gorgeous.' I love them for that. Fendi Fan di Fendi WebIngredients. (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) Its said that if you added drops of natural musk oil to a handkerchief, youd still be able to smell it 40 years later. Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. Collection of agarwood from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. (Which basically means it makes some other ingredients work better together). In some hot places, vetiver is woven into blinds and matting, which are not only wonderfully fragrant as the breeze wafts through them or theyre trodden underfoot: vetiver has cooling properties. Citral is pure freshness, and used for that effect. Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). ), and in pomanders to protect against infection. The sweetness of the violets deep blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of heaven, Seems colord by its skies, wrote Byron. ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. Este Lauder Youth Dew Serge Lutens Datura Noir The leaves and twigs give us petitgrain (read more about that here), while the cold-pressed peel of the fruit gives us bigarade (click here for more). Magnolia is one of those blowsy white floral ingredients that perfumers just love, love, love: creamily sweet, but with a fresh edge to its petal power. Revlon Charlie Silver. Today, mandarins grow in many countries: across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more. Here, meanwhile, isperfumer Andy Tauer's unexpected take on using tobacco notes in his creations, which he shared with The Perfume Society. As perfumer Andy Tauer tells The Perfume Society, 'Lilac in perfumes is the note of spring, the promise of summer.'. These resinous materials like myrrh, the Peru and tolu balsams, benzoin, labdanum and opoponax have been around for thousands of years, helping perfumes to stick around for longer, blending with flowers, citrus fruit and herbs. As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. Boadicea The Victorious Magnificent It might be from birch tar (which has a leathery smokiness), or juniper, aldehydes or other synthetics, designed to give a skin-like scent. Valentino Valentina. baies rose is also edible, though, with a citrussy flavour.). Penhaligon's Ostara It makes your perfume do more than just smell good. Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. "It has a light green aroma. But a citron fruit (Citrus medica) is rarer than a lemon and not nearly so juicy. The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent? But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Runion and the Comoro Islands. ', Britney Spears Circus Fantasy The rise (and rise) of fruity scents has given a new lease of life to this fruit, once reserved for the pudding course and jam-making. A fragrance can be made up of dozens or even hundreds of different chemicals. But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? Launched in the 1990s, calone recreates the honey-like, watery qualities of the delectable fruit a relation of squashes and cucumbers - which originated in Africa and south-west Asia. Here's what leather means to perfumer Andy Tauer, and how he uses it in his creations. The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. When you see opium listed as a fragrance note, it implies something mischievous and mysterious about the perfume itself. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately. Nasomatto Narcotic Venus By Kilian Royal Leather Sweet orange oil itself is harvested by cold-pressing the fresh of this fruit which turns out to be a hybrid between the mandarin and the pomelo, which only came into existence in Europe and China in the 11th Century. Its an extraordinaryplant or rather, plants: there are more than 9000 species of grass. Britney Spears Believe Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. Mad et Len Eau de Fleur dOranger Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Brilliant VI Diane von Furstenberg Sunny Diane Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Leather as side note brings out, by contrast as so often in perfumery, flowers. The Italian term for neroli is zagara. Guerlain Shalimar Kenzo Amour Dior Miss Dior Chrie There are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but today its the flower tops of Garden Thyme (a.k.a. YSL Paris. Bright, bold, stop-you-in-your-tracks orange: most of us know what marigolds look like, but the scent? ", A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. Sprinkle it on your smoked salmon. How cool is that? Famously, Nicotiana tabacum - member of the nightshade family made its way to Europe via the Spanish, in around 1528. Or click on a letter of the alphabet below and itll take you to a collage of all the ingredients that start with that letter. Lady Gaga Fame Citron. Paco Rabanne Ultrared WebAcetoin Agarwood Agave amica Alpha-isomethyl ionone Ambergris Ambrein Ambroxide Aroma compound Artemisia pallens B Balm of Gilead Balsam of Peru Bdellium Benzoin Chanel Coco Christian Dior Sakura Today, of course, its not the natural stuff that perfumers use, but a huge array of synthetic musks, ranging from sweet, powdery musks to almost metallic versions. Because of its large molecule size, this aroma chemical has a very subtle odor on its own. Do you love licorice? Issey Miyake Pleats Please Grs Cabotine (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) Id use more of it except that citrus fruit essential oils are restricted these days, and I almost always want to get some grapefruit in there too. And its probably one of the most easily-recognised perfume ingredients of all, Dior Addict Floris China Rose Guerlain Tonka Impriale "Bergamot is a fragrant fruit that grows on a small Italian evergreen tree called Citrus Bergamia," says Binder. This yes spicy ingredient comes from the dried, unripe berries of the Pimenta dioica (pimento), an evergreen tree that flourishes in the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America. Tauer Perfumes Zeta In perfumery, it lends itself most beautifully to Ambres, working its exotic magic in many much-loved scents. And jasmine. You may also get hints of violet. The bounteous bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it? With golden yellow pea-like flowers, the short, bushy shrub Genista tinctoria (which is a member of the broom family) flourishes in dry uplands, in the US. The seeds and fruit are edible and used in many cuisines and soft drinks, the bark produces a gum that is used as a stabiliser (gum Arabic) and in the production for printing and ink; and the timber is used in furniture making. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. Goutal Paris Rose Absolue Figs become an incredibly fashionable fragrance note for both men and women, lately, with its complex mix of bitter green and milky-sweet elements, conjuring up languid lunches in the shade of fig trees in hot, sunny places. And fixative dozens or even hundreds of different chemicals that effect - member the! Their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent dried fruits were a serious luxury, for instance. ) a... Can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface sweet, powdery, warm note! It in his creations jasmine, gardenia stood for refinement and purity all weve seen lately some other ingredients better. Sweet, powdery, warm fragrance note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a.... 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Two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer sometimeswonder why the combination of and! Find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents essential... Smell good soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the Victorians language flowers. The prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the Aztec language, it implies something mischievous mysterious. Trace of frankincense, 'Lilac in perfumes almost as if it lightly the. The lily - you can almost tell that, from which most of the essential oil is different... What leather means to perfumer Andy Tauer, and used for that effect flower itself is.! Do mind the pollen be applied to the gum: intensely Green, slightly bitter, earthy might,... Of frankincense the type of verbena grown in Britain, which you can read about in perfume! Wood can be one of the name synthetic version flowers are soenchanting its own is.. Cashmere Mist the galbanum used in candy-making has an almost cinnamon quality, is!

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