In the 19th century, even the comparatively well-to-do had fewer clothes than do their 21st-century counterparts. He also revived fashion illustration, founded a school for the decorative arts and even diversified into perfume. The design is signed with the name of the firm, and would probably have been used as a presentation drawing, for clients to decide which model they wanted to have made. The Teddy Boys, who wore pointed shoes, tight trousers and long jackets with velvet trim, were also a significant teenage group. An illustration in the American edition of the fashion magazine Vogue' of 15 April 1926 identifies this dress. The skirt now fitted closely at the waist; fullness all fell from the center back, unsupported by any bustle or steels, plain and untrimmed, in a flowing line to the ground. The shape emphasized a narrow waist and large mono-bosom, which can be seen in the fashion illustration by La Mode Artistique (Fig. In his book 'The Little Dictionary of Fashion' (1954) Christian Dior (1905-57) described cocktail dresses as 'elaborate and dressy afternoon frocks', preferably in black taffeta, satin, chiffon and wool. Silk, rhinestones, metal. The coats illustrated here are typical of the 1950s. Merwin, Pearl [from old catalog, and Kansas City American college of dressmaking. The dress was given to the Museum by the Hon. It thrust the hips backwards and forced the chest forward into a fashionable pouter-pigeon shape, emphasised with puffed, frilly blouses that were often embellished with decorations like lace collars and broad ribbon ties. The striped jacket had originally been worn for cricket, tennis and rowing and it became fashionable for seaside wear during the 1880s. It is decorated with lace, frills and pin-tucks, to give a soft and feminine appearance.The bodice is ruched and draped to createa low, puffed chest shape that was very fashionable in the 1900s, especially around 1905. He launched 'Heim Jeunes Filles' in 1936 to follow younger tastes in fashion. John French (1906-66) The 1930s silhouette is therefore slinky and close-fitting and the line was simple and uncluttered. T.69toB-1976Given by Mr A. MacKay, This distinctive style comprising bowler hat, fitted jacket and tapered trousers with waisted overcoat and velvet collar evolved shortly after the Second World War - in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Dior offered the glamour and romance of full skirts and nipped-in waists to women who were tired of utilitarian clothes with boxy silhouettes, mannish square shoulders and practical short skirts. The choice of blue and white, refers to the 'matelot' style popular amongst youth in France during the mid 1960s. 130-1925Given by H. L. Sparks, Esq. This resulted in a range of informal styles that fed into mainstream fashion: 'A man's wardrobe is now almost as varied as a woman's. The bride wears a typical 1930s wedding dress, which features a long train, high-neck and long sleeves, with rather squared shoulders. The wreath is decorated with wax orange blossoms on wire stems, and was a popular wedding accessory of the decade. It was madeto sit on top of the head, bothas a decoration and a way of holding the long veil in place. Black shoes and boots were popular for boys, as well. The Utility Scheme was introduced by the Board in 1941 to ensure that low- and medium-quality consumer goods were produced to the highest possible standards at 'reasonable' prices. PhotographJohn French (1906-66)1960sLondonJohn French Archive, V&A ref. The Pragmatic Costumer has several thrifty ideas on creating a Gibson Skirt and Blouse Set. ', Design for a suitField Rhoades Ltd (Marjorie Field)1940sLondonPencil and bodycolour on paperMuseum no. Jacques Heim (1899-1967) began to extend his parents' establishment, which specialized in furs, into a couture house in 1920. Their hair was decorated with ribbon (Figs. A wide sash arranged in folds below the waist emphasised the slenderness of the wearer. Evening dressMichael Sherard (191098)1958LondonFrench re-embroidered ribbon lace, with taffetaMuseum no. By the 1880s the top hat was relegated to more formal occasions when a gentleman would wear a frock or tail coat. Victorian hats Learn the history of Victorian-era hats. S.137:417-2007. It has wide, inset panels of lacis patterned with a meandering leaf stem at the front, back and sleeve tops to complement the light fabric. It was not made by one of the top houses, for it is probably a copy by a good dressmaker of a Paris model . The label in this little black dress simply reads 'Lord and Taylor'. 1905. T.297-1974Given by Princess Slanislaus Radziwill. The following scans are from summer and winter clothing catalogs and tailors books spanning 1906 to 1918. The loop of tape outside the waistband through which tongues of the braces were passed became general towards the end of the period. All the seams are double.The dress is short, and has a triangular shape. It reveals Balenciagas debt to his training in tailoring in Spain and his capacity for choosing fabrics fit for purpose. rich fabrics were used to make the dresses. Waists were cinched and hats grew wide and saucer shaped. This 'space suit' forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection. In 1960 the V&A acquired well over 100 items from her wardrobe. The frou-frou of a gown is one of its desired merits (Queen, 1893). Suit (skirt and jacket)Hardy Amies (1909-2003)1947LondonTailored worstedMuseum no. This was the name of a prestigious department store on Fifth Avenue in New York. This suit sums up the 1930s silhouette with its sleek lines, nipped-in waist, square shoulders, and straight, pleated skirt. She is wearing a fashionable cloche hat and sports a bob. It was usually single-breasted and was known as the 'cutaway', as the fronts sloped away elegantly to the broad skirts behind. Now, colourful new elements were introduced, such as the collarless jacket, worn with slim-fitting trousers and boots. This costume shows how designers of the period lavishly adorned plain cloth with a variety of rich trimmings. The back of the coat shows a slit from waist down to the hem, covered with a panel. The rigid S-bend shape popular in the early part of the decade gradually straightened out into a more natural shape. To discover primary/period sources, explore the categories below. The word 'Utility' was applied to garments made from Utility cloth, which was defined in terms of minimum weight and fibre content per yard. Tailor-made outfits were practical yet smart and well suited to town or country wear. Fabrics such as muslin and dimity were used to create a fresh and clean design. Pants were either ankle-length to the mid-calf, drawers were either just below or just above the knee. T.320&A-1978Given by Mrs Brenda Azario. The bodice is lined with white cotton (with ruffles attached to give fullness at the bust) and has a stiff, silk-faced waistband. For less formal wear, girls might wear pinafore dresses over blouses and their clothing tended to be much simpler than their adult counterparts. Edward Molyneux (1891-1974) could be relied on to provide streamlined distinction. A simple waist-tie gives shapely definition to the loose tunic-style. The flamenco dress was a recurring theme in 1950s cocktail and evening wear. For those who couldnt afford lace, Irish crochet was a good alternative (Laver 216). Stockings were often worn underneath, held up by garters. This was the time for the two-piece skirt and blouse set to emerge with style. They sport heavy fringes with straight hair curled up at the bottom. T.33&A-1988Given by Mrs M. Bagel. The skirt is cut as a complete circle. T.720-1974Given by the Earl and Countess of Avon. This dress dates from about 1955, when Owen Hyde-Clark was the chief designer. Couturier clothing like this was custom-made for each individual client, and was out of most women's reach. The silhouette was slim at the hip, accomplished by pleating and smocking the excess fabric. These confections became the personification of the little black dress and were often accessorised with gloves and small, elaborate hats. This suit was worn by HRH The Duke of Windsor. This dress was worn by Miss Heather Firbank (1888-1954), daughter of the affluent Member of Parliament Sir Thomas Firbank and sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank. The word 'Utility' was applied to garments made from Utility cloth, which was defined in terms of minimum weight and fibre content per yard. The traditional brogue employs circles and dots born along the lines of the shoe's construction, emphasising the stitching, and as a prominent field pattern on the toecap. This dress has a schoolmistress-like authority and propriety; its covered-up look features a demure high neck, long sleeves and a safe, calf-length skirt. Its distinctive features were a box pleat at the centre back and another passing down each forepart. The blouses varied from the plainest shirt-like garments to elaborate constructions and trimmings of silk and lace. Wool tabby- for skirts, jackes,waistcoats and pants. Hundreds of tiny pin-tucks cover the entire surface of both dress and coat in this blue-green silk ensemble by Hartnell. This photograph shows the pop singer Patti Lewis in her dressing room.Her hair is cut short and set in curls, which is a typical style of the 1950s. It is from the Utility Collection by the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers for the Board of Trade. 13 - Mr Corbella. His collections continued to be a great success. Joan Regan was a popular singer with a particularly glamorous image.Here she is shown in a full-length, off the shoulderevening gown.The bodice is shaped, and is probably corseted.Her hair is set with curls around the face, and she wears bright red lipstick. Plain silks- for dresses, jackets, waistcoats, pants and capes. over this is placed the nap prepared from the hair of the beaver.' Paco Rabanne led the field of radical experimentation in elite fashion design in the 1960s. The dress consists of five narrow widths of pleated silk hand-sewn into a tube just 47 cm wide. A new style was beginning to evolve in the last three years of the century. Long, simple and clinging evening gowns, made of satin were popular. Changes in fashion did occur, but they affected details such as the width of the lapel or the cut of the trousers. His collar is not starched up, but is turned down over his tie. During the day, the three-piece suit dominated (Fig. The Utility Scheme was introduced by the Board in 1941 to ensure that low- and medium-quality consumer goods were produced to the highest possible standards at 'reasonable' prices. While the prevailing mode favored the embellished day and evening dresses, women began to emphasize the importance of dressing for the occasion. Utility clothes were usually identified by a distinctive double crescent CC41 (Civilian Clothing) label. T.109-1982Given by Mrs Haynes and Mrs Clarke. Victorian fabrics and indeed Edwardian fabrics mostly had . The dress has a simple collar and spotted cravat. The sitter in this photograph is wearing fashions typical of the 1900s.She is wearing a 'lingerie dress',a type ofdiaphanousgown reminiscent of nightgowns or petticoats.They were madewithlots of frills andtiers, usually in white or light pastel shades, and often decorated with lace, ribbons and pin-tucks. Evening mini-dressPaco Rabanne (born 1934)1967ParisPlastic pailletes joined with metal wireMuseum no. It has no more than two pockets, five buttons, six seams, 160 inches of stitching and no superfluous decoration. He was originally trained by the court dressmaker, Reville. Evening dressElsa Schiaparelli, (1890-1973)1940, ParisBlack silk crepe, embroidered with pearls, sequins and metallic strip, and fastened with a plastic zipMuseum no. Dressing in vintage style clothing for a themed event or personal fashion is our passion. Leotards, tights and velour tracksuits were incredibly popular, as were legwarmers and sweatbands worn around the forehead. The practice came to an end around the time of the First World War. T.421 to H-1977Given by Lady Alice Egerton. 7841-1938, Here, Baron Welby is shown in formal dress.He is wearing a frock coat, high-fastening waistcoat, starched 'winged' collar, and a top hat., Top hats were still worn by the upper classes for formal wear, though bowler hats and boaters werenow common forgeneral and casualdress. , Photograph, portraitof W.A.S. The V&A holds over 40 similar designs from Willetts & Sons. T.465-1974Given by the Hon. T.36-1964Given by Mrs P. Otway-Smithers. Hair was often cropped quite short and set in curls, or kept long and tied in simple chignons or ponytails at the back. - Large plaid for capes and blankets. The 1920s produced some of the most exciting shoes of the century, with tremendous variety in cut, colour and ornamentation. The early to mid-1980s also brought with it the New Romantic age, influenced by the punk scene. In evening dress, a short but extremely full and puffed sleeve, ending at the elbow or just earlier one, spread out sideways instead of rising above the shoulder. 21 & 22). Along with 'Coco' Chanel he was considered a leading exponent of the androgynous'garon' look, creating smart, tubular, well-tailored clothes. Seventies style has been described as a blend of mod and hippie. All fullness has vanished save at the shoulder where pointed and square epaulettes, puffs or butterfly arrangements maintain their wide effect which makes the waist look small.. The journal featured articles about theatre, travel and other pursuits of interest to the leisured wealthy, but the main emphasis was always on fashion. This elegant gown is typical of 1930s evening attire. Christian Dior (1905-57) launched his couture house on 12 February 1947 and became an overnight sensation. The common people clothing starts to vary more between countrys than earlyer centuries. 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